by Ilan Solomons on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 at 11:13pm
What comes to mind when you think Soweto? Crime, violence, 1976 unrest, soccer, lots of Apartheid era memorials and even perhaps the home of many famous South African struggle heroes! I doubt that Rugby, Blue Bulls and Jewish students staying and keeping the Jewish Sabbath is something that would jump to the front of ones mind. It definitely does not for me. Soweto is a place that holds an integral part in South African history. A place where approximately 3million people live, that is alive with character and culture. It needs no introduction. It is a place that evokes strong emotion and differing feelings among black and white South Africans specifically.
It is a place that I have been to for tours, meetings – specifically at the Maponya Mall – and I have attended sports events like the Soweto Open Tennis Open which is held at the Arthur Ashe Stadium. Most of these events have taken place over a couple of hours and are normally confined to specific places or what some would deem as “Soweto Safe Zones”. I had never contemplated staying over in Soweto nor had I ever thought about spending a Jewish Sabbath – which commences on a Friday afternoon at dusk and concludes on Saturday at night fall – as there are many religious requirements and rules which need to be adhered to over this period and just would not be easy to fulfil in Soweto which does not have a mainstream Jewish community in it other than a group called the Lemba; of whose status the main stream Jewish establishments of South Africa do not recognize as fully fledged Jews, but this is something which requires a full explanation and I will not elaborate on in this piece.
I am a major Blue Bulls rugby fan and try to follow their progress as much as possible. I have never however been to a semi or final that they have contested until this year. When I heard that the Blue Bulls would be moving their home semi-final match to Orlando Stadium – as Fifa has commandeered their home ground of Loftus in Tswane for the upcoming world cup – I decided that this was a historic occasion which I could not afford to miss out on. The only problem was that rugby takes place over the Jewish Sabbath and issues like the prohibition of taking any form of transport and not carrying articles outside specific areas is a major issue for practicing orthodox Jews like my-self. The other issue is that the white phobia of townships and specifically Soweto is something that runs very deep. I personally have been to Soweto and have friends and colleagues there so I am personally not as paranoid. I found a Bed and Breakfast that is within walking distance of the stadium and we arranged to bring our kosher meals, and we made agreements with the owner of the B&B to carry our tickets to the game so as to avert the issue of carrying outside an enclosed area on the Sabbath.
My friend and I arrived on Friday afternoon and were taken on walking tour of Orlando East by the owner of Magora’s B&B, Mr Jimmy Magora. We had another longer walking tour on Saturday which showed us a lot of the developments in Orlando and the many challenges that Soweto faces. The mix of old shabby houses and tin structures along side houses that would not be out of place in the northern suburbs was eye opening. Soweto is like many traditionally black neighbourhoods that is developing rapidly but at the same time desperately attempting to retain its sense of communal uniqueness.
The atmosphere in the stadium was electric to say the least. The shear historical importance of the semi-final of a major rugby competition being played in a place renowned for its strong soccer culture and the mass of mostly Afrikaans white people coming to a largely Black township, was not lost on any one. The party began long before the game with Black, White, Indian, Jewish, Coloured and others, getting together to get behind the Bulls and to unite in our rich cultural diversity. It’s truly amazing how far we have come as a nation and the culmination of a successful rugby game in Soweto just shows how powerful sport as a tool is in continuing to unite us as a nation.
Seeing Afrikaners starting to sing Shoshloza and Black people shouting “ Bulle,Bulle – jou lekke ding”, was incredible. Seeing random people going up to one another and having pictures with one another and starting conversations with old adversaries was awe inspiring to say the least. I am grateful to my friend for coming with me to the game and spending shabbos with me in Soweto, I am grateful to the Magora’s for making us feel at home in their beautiful B&B that was not only spacious but also uniquely sowetan. The measures they took to ensure that we were not only safe but that we felt safe as well. I can vouch that neither my friend nor I ever felt threatened or scared and we had an amazing time.
I do not think that this was a traditional Shabbos but it was a unique one, which I will never forget. I hope that not only foreigners will grace Soweto with visits and tours, but that the White and Indian communities specifically make greater efforts to explore Soweto and the other areas that we are traditionally scared or intimidated to even step foot in due to the various stereotypes and prejudices we harbour.
I will be back in Soweto at the Magora’s B&B for the Final of the Super 14, wether my team is successful or not, I am assured that South Africa will be the winner in one way or another.
*Just a last point if people would like to stay in Soweto there are various places and tours available. The place I stayed offers those services as well and at a reasonable and competitive rate. I stayed at Magora B&B which is situated at 4009 Senaone Street, Orlando East – five minute walk from Orlando Stadium and centrally located to other famous locations. To enquire or book with them you can contact them at magora@iburst.co.za, or www.magorabnb.co.za, they are also listed on the AA site and are an accredited B&B by FIFA – check out there respective sites or you can call the owners on 072 182 4459.
It is a place that I have been to for tours, meetings – specifically at the Maponya Mall – and I have attended sports events like the Soweto Open Tennis Open which is held at the Arthur Ashe Stadium. Most of these events have taken place over a couple of hours and are normally confined to specific places or what some would deem as “Soweto Safe Zones”. I had never contemplated staying over in Soweto nor had I ever thought about spending a Jewish Sabbath – which commences on a Friday afternoon at dusk and concludes on Saturday at night fall – as there are many religious requirements and rules which need to be adhered to over this period and just would not be easy to fulfil in Soweto which does not have a mainstream Jewish community in it other than a group called the Lemba; of whose status the main stream Jewish establishments of South Africa do not recognize as fully fledged Jews, but this is something which requires a full explanation and I will not elaborate on in this piece.
I am a major Blue Bulls rugby fan and try to follow their progress as much as possible. I have never however been to a semi or final that they have contested until this year. When I heard that the Blue Bulls would be moving their home semi-final match to Orlando Stadium – as Fifa has commandeered their home ground of Loftus in Tswane for the upcoming world cup – I decided that this was a historic occasion which I could not afford to miss out on. The only problem was that rugby takes place over the Jewish Sabbath and issues like the prohibition of taking any form of transport and not carrying articles outside specific areas is a major issue for practicing orthodox Jews like my-self. The other issue is that the white phobia of townships and specifically Soweto is something that runs very deep. I personally have been to Soweto and have friends and colleagues there so I am personally not as paranoid. I found a Bed and Breakfast that is within walking distance of the stadium and we arranged to bring our kosher meals, and we made agreements with the owner of the B&B to carry our tickets to the game so as to avert the issue of carrying outside an enclosed area on the Sabbath.
My friend and I arrived on Friday afternoon and were taken on walking tour of Orlando East by the owner of Magora’s B&B, Mr Jimmy Magora. We had another longer walking tour on Saturday which showed us a lot of the developments in Orlando and the many challenges that Soweto faces. The mix of old shabby houses and tin structures along side houses that would not be out of place in the northern suburbs was eye opening. Soweto is like many traditionally black neighbourhoods that is developing rapidly but at the same time desperately attempting to retain its sense of communal uniqueness.
The atmosphere in the stadium was electric to say the least. The shear historical importance of the semi-final of a major rugby competition being played in a place renowned for its strong soccer culture and the mass of mostly Afrikaans white people coming to a largely Black township, was not lost on any one. The party began long before the game with Black, White, Indian, Jewish, Coloured and others, getting together to get behind the Bulls and to unite in our rich cultural diversity. It’s truly amazing how far we have come as a nation and the culmination of a successful rugby game in Soweto just shows how powerful sport as a tool is in continuing to unite us as a nation.
Seeing Afrikaners starting to sing Shoshloza and Black people shouting “ Bulle,Bulle – jou lekke ding”, was incredible. Seeing random people going up to one another and having pictures with one another and starting conversations with old adversaries was awe inspiring to say the least. I am grateful to my friend for coming with me to the game and spending shabbos with me in Soweto, I am grateful to the Magora’s for making us feel at home in their beautiful B&B that was not only spacious but also uniquely sowetan. The measures they took to ensure that we were not only safe but that we felt safe as well. I can vouch that neither my friend nor I ever felt threatened or scared and we had an amazing time.
I do not think that this was a traditional Shabbos but it was a unique one, which I will never forget. I hope that not only foreigners will grace Soweto with visits and tours, but that the White and Indian communities specifically make greater efforts to explore Soweto and the other areas that we are traditionally scared or intimidated to even step foot in due to the various stereotypes and prejudices we harbour.
I will be back in Soweto at the Magora’s B&B for the Final of the Super 14, wether my team is successful or not, I am assured that South Africa will be the winner in one way or another.
*Just a last point if people would like to stay in Soweto there are various places and tours available. The place I stayed offers those services as well and at a reasonable and competitive rate. I stayed at Magora B&B which is situated at 4009 Senaone Street, Orlando East – five minute walk from Orlando Stadium and centrally located to other famous locations. To enquire or book with them you can contact them at magora@iburst.co.za, or www.magorabnb.co.za, they are also listed on the AA site and are an accredited B&B by FIFA – check out there respective sites or you can call the owners on 072 182 4459.
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